CEDARHILL

The Museums

One of the first things you notice about The Louvre is the scale of things. Like this 30ft pillar which came out of Mesopotania thousands of years old. Or these sphinxs from Egypt. Or perhaps the massive painting of Napoleans coronation.

That is why, when you finally arrive at The Mona Lisa it is easy to be underwhelmed by its size.

Susan and I  gave ourselves  3 hours  there and she went off to see the Egyptian  section and I  wandered through the hall of French and Greek sculptures, the Dutch and Flemish painters, the Italian painters, the Egyptian and Asian sections. Truly, the Louvre is the keeper of some of the worlds greatest artistic efforts through the centuries. Here are the real things. Not the copies like I grew up with. This is the real Renoir. The actual works by Van Gogh,Money, Massey, Manet,Michaelangelo,DaVinci...The Louvres collection today includes 140,000 works from the 13th century to 1848.  When they built the Museum D Orsay,and converted the old Train station into the museum, they sent all the works which were 1848 to modern times there. After lunch, Susan and I walked across the river and did the Orsay, and finished up our Day of Museums with the Orangerie, which showcases 4 massive paintings by Monet which he did in his 80's of his famous water lillies.
Art like this makes you ponder humanity, from the wars which are depicted in great epic battle scenes, to the pomp and circumstance of royalty through the ages, to the spirit of one soul.It's impressive what man can achieve and how permanent his achievements must seem at the time. This column survived centuries, but the entire civilization which produced it did not.

   

The Neighborhood

Our little coffee shop around the corner was  a local affair. Nothing fancy, but the proprietor remembered I wanted milk in my coffee and he  made it hot and frothy, and  you could  have coffee and a croissant for under  $2 Euros. Sitting here  we watched  parents walk their kids to school, and businessmen dragging briefcases on wheels to work. On a street not any wider than  two cars there was a stream of bikes, motorcycles, taxis, cars and the occassional work truck that  navigated the narrow passage.

We started our days here and then caught the metro stop at Emile Zola to make our way to the museums etc. It began to feel like OUR neighborhood in the short time we were there. Language is an issue though. We found so many people willing to help us, but it was a bumbling experience where conversation is limited to what and where and many hand signals.. And there were so many times Susan and I wish we spoke more French to really HAVE a conversation with these interesting people and their lives in Paris. Perhaps next year Susan's French will be good enough to string sentences together instead of just words. As she says,  when she would try to speak French someone would perk up and say in English where do you want to go? Susan says that her French confuses french-speakers....so they convert to English to answer us. Here most people speak atleast two languages...but sometimes it is French and German.  The parking lot attendant who was from the Ivory Coast of Africa spoke his dialect AND French, German and English. Wow!

St Chappelle

St Chappelle was built to house sacred relics. Louis IX purchased what he believed were the crown of thorns from Constantinople paying almost three times  what it cost him to build the chapel. And in 1248 he purchased an actual piece of the Cross.

Although small in size St Chappelle is considered a must- see among all the competing sights of Europe for its exquisite detail. It's stained glass are thought by most to be the best in the world and they  represent 1000 bible verses put into stained glass images.

The King could pass from his palace into the upper chambers of St Chappelle, and it was here that we were fortuante enough to attend a live performance of Vivaldi's Four Seasons on Tuesday nite.

Susan and I had quietly taken seats in the back when the usher came over and motioned for us to follow him to the front. It seems that 12 people who had reserved front row seats didn't show. And he gave us TWO of those seats!  I have heard Vivaldi on a CD before, but to watch it performed live...to see the violinist and his fingers and expression as he plays was quite different.  Well... another touch of heaven I think.

Versaille

Heading to the Louve on Tuesday it was another beautiful day in Paris. Unfortuantely we only got as far as the lower level of the Louve where only the Tourist Information office was open. The Louve has changed its hours since Rick Steves (our bible for traveling) put out his 2007 edition. They are now closed on Tuesdays! So with a scramble of phone messages to Sarah's hotel to let her know  - in case she was planning  to go as well- Susan and I changed directions and took the train (RER) out to Versailles instead.

Here, the Hall of Mirrors is the grand walkway just outside of the King's and Queen's quarters.

Yes, I would imagine if you walked out of your bedroom every morning to THIS, it might go to your head. You might feel that you were very special in-deed....and had a favored place in this world. 

***Built between 1664 - 1710, and corresponding to three distinct wars during that period (which helped to fund  the projects) Versailles was turned from a royal hunting lodge into the seat of power from which to rule.France was regarded as a super-power in Europe, Louie XIV brought his court to Versailles as a way of keeping track of the nobility and putting him on the high ground (so-to-speak). Although historians have been unable to state with any accuracy the cost of building Versailles based on 1682/present dollars one conservative estimate puts it around $2billion. Versailles was stripped of many of its artifacts during the Revolution and restoration efforts today involve buying back these pieces from all over the world.France has also funded the reconstruction of 17th century tapestries and silks. (During the reign of Louis XIV the  King nationalized the  ftapestry factory of the family Gobelins  who  were became the official royal manufacturer of all the Palace tapestries.)

We ended our Versailles jaunt with lunch at another cafe. Except it was 3 in the afternoon and all the tourist cafes were closing between lunch and dinner service. We wound our way back further into the square and found a small cafe with a very French proprietor. A woman in her 50's  in linen brown pants and a warm twinkly smile who communicated with us in her French and was pleased we were going to try her Indian Chicken.. a special with her. I had the chicken and Susan had a salad with French cheeses. The food and the presentation and the attention were memorable. I have to admit here, that when we first sat down... the woman took her time getting back to us for taking our orders. I was almost ready to leave - but didn't. Eating lunch and watching her weave through the tables chatting with each of us you realize that she was orchestrating an eating experience for each of her guests. Giving them time to talk to each other before interrupting, pacing the delivery of food and service so that nothing felt rushed. It was my American tendency to want speed. That is not the way here. And it feels good.

Paris

Susan took us all to Paris this week where we spent three days and two nites. Sarah and the boys stayed on the rue Cler neighborhood and found their Paris bliss in boat rides along the Seine, shopping, and sidewalk cafes. Susan and I stayed a few neighborhoods away (3 metro stops) and found ourselves enjoying a smorgasboard of things from museums, to a night bike tour, to walking the gardens of the Louve and taking a train ride out to Versaille. On our last night there, we all hooked up for dinner at a cafe in rue Cler which Sarah and the Boys said was the best...and headed home about 8. Rain had finally arrived. True Paris weather Susan says, but it made for perfect driving weather.

My Paris experience really began with Mikes Fat Bike Tours. Susan and I had heard about them from Paula and the girls who said this was a not-to-be-missed experience.Our tour guide Liza was taking a career break, working for this American company. She was an IT manager in Seattle and decided to cut out of the corporate rat race and lead bike tours! This company does this in Paris, London and Brazil and I'd have to say, I would seek them out in those countries to start off any trip. Lots of Fab things this trip...but the bike tour was maybe at the top of mine...

Starting at the Eiffle Tower at 7pm, they wind you through neighborhoods, in mainstream traffic, up on the sidewalks...and best of all thru the gardens of the Louve and around the main plaza. (shown here). We crisscossed many of the 23 bridges which span the Seine. Where people gather at night to meet their friends. Each bridge has a personality of sorts and this one bridge was like a large outdoor happy-hour for the 20+ crowd. Girls would arrive in dresses bringing a bottle of wine and guys in dreadlocks played guitar. And at the end of the bridge was a Paris cafe where an outdoor demonstration of Tango was going on. And next to that was the neighborhood icecream shop where we all had to get off the bikes and just soak in the evening. Biking gets you on the ground floor of Paris; its neighborhoods, its people, its traffic, its essence. And with no hills its easy! I did question riding our bikes in Paris night traffic, but Liza just reminded us to "Dominate the lane" and Paris drivers accomodated us.  Amazing.. The tour ended with a one hour boat ride along the Seine with our Tour Guide passing out red wine (no open container laws here). And from here we saw the lights of Paris and the changing of the lights on the Eiffle Tour. It changes to a million sparkling white lights at 11pm, and then slowly changes to a stunning blue. It is from the boat that you  can really see how much night life there is along the river.  People stroll the  river banks, sit and talk, wave at the boats, set up their own dance stage or perform (like a street fair) where ever there is space and inspiration to do so. Susan also kept reminding me of how rare this "perfect weather" we are having is in this part of the world. But the day was warm and the night was cool, and although you couldn't see the stars, there was enough sparkle and glow to the night to make anyone feel close to heaven.

Cedarhill has a new website

CedarHill  Bed and Breakfast has a new website address:   www.cedarhillaz.com

A Fine Day

Well it is a quiet evening here in Lux. It is after 11pm and the entire household is still up. That's what happens when it doesn't get dark till about 10. This evening Sarah and Susan cooked - or concocted a dinner of warm chicken salad over fresh greenbeans and lettuce, and for dessert we had white chocolate somethings! Sarah and Alex had gone to market and Alex insisted they buy a decadent dessert to take home to his new friend Pawan.
As Sarah says...Alex was really thinking only of Pawan. (I think he made a friend when he agreed to sit up awhile and watch part of Alex's horror show with him when no one else would) Sarah thought the better of blowing the rest of us off, and bought desserts for all of us...THANK YOU Sarah!.... And so we all dined in style. Susan commented how nice it was to have several women in her kitchen....either cooking, or cleaning....or Klatching (is that a word?). But of Course! I have found xtra hands around the house very handy as well. It was very nice. Sarah is introducing Patrick to some of her own life here in Lux and they went over to a friends house to watch a movie. **Sarah is talking to Kenneth **Linda writing postcards home. I was finally encourged to actually WRITE on the postcards I'd purchased, as opposed to just HAVING them in a bag, when I saw Patrick pull out his  bag of newly purchased cards and dash off notes to about 20 people in less than an hour.

He puts the rest of us to shame.

Susan ...AND Pawan had to spend several HOURS on the phone today trying to track down hotels rooms for us in Paris. They are in high demand and hard to find. We finally found a triple (simply meaning a room with three single beds) for Sarah and boys in one hotel, and one for Susan and I in a dif. hotel several blocks away, but within a reasonable distance that we can feel like we are together ....even if we aren't in the exact same location. Amazing that it is that difficult....but it is. Paris hotels are very specific. A single room has one twin bed. A double has two twin beds or a full size bed. Hotels that have 200 rooms, will have ONE vacancy or two...and those can dissappear in the time it takes to check with other people in your party as to what they want to do. And then the search starts all over again. And so it is that we feel pretty good that we have rooms...and are on our way to Paris on Monday.

Tomorrow is Sunday in Lux. They don't believe in working on Sunday and to show how serious they are, they have even passed an ordinance against mowing your grass on Sunday.  So, it might just have to be a day of coffee, conversation and  .... cat naps.  Hmmm. Not a bad way to spend the day.

The Gibralter of the North

Sarah, ALex and Patrick in front of the Duke's summer home here in Luxemborg. They arrived on Thursday and after a day of catching up with sleep were ready to take in the City this afternoon. Susan gave us all a tour of the City Square and also the Casements. Luxemborg was considered the Gilbralter of the North, and had such massive, well constructed fortresses and walls that it was very defensible. Making it a worthy prize for many would-be Nation builders including, Spain, Austria, France...and a few others. The City has existed since 963  and by the 1800's they were tired of being wanted for their fortresses. So they brokered a treaty with - whoever was last in line- which basically said they would tear down their walls in exchange for everyone agreeing to leave them alone as a sovereign nation. They went forth to Holland and found a suitable Royal Family to preside over  the  Country...and thus was borne the seeds of modern-day Luxemborg.  Here, Sarah and boys are standing in the center of  a walkway made  up of massive stone arches. Part of the fortress wall.  The canon shown here with Patrick overlooking the city below dates back to the 1700's.

Eric and Sarah...

Erics last night in Lux before flying home to start his summer job with RR. Hamming it up with sister Sarah. (I asked them to do Yoga moves and this is what they came up with!..among others)
It was great having Eric here for the first week I was here. He is the first to step in and see what he can do to help... Plus he is a great driver - even on European roads, and just an all around handy guy to have around. And he and Sarah enjoy each other.         

Travel Euro Style

Maybe its the lack of space. Maybe it is just a difference in perspectives, but whatever it is, it seems everything is "Petite" here. Including their RV Parks.

These little travel trailers were arranged, oh, ever so neatly. Each with a front yard view and a grassy area to enjoy.

I wanted to take a few home with me!

Maybe I can expand CedarHill, by adding a couple of these cute travel trailers ?  If I get a chance I will take a closer view of these and post a better pic.

A Walk in the Woods

Susan took Eric and I on a  quick jaunt north to hike a forested path and enjoy some of this beautiful weather. (She says it usually rains) . It was beautiful enough without the added element of history, but here, EVERYTHING has roots going back hundreds of years. The streambank was lined with a dry-stack rock wall, overgrown with moss, and a stone bridge which was part of a castle-kingdom of the 1500's. Look close at the way the arches are formed from rock. Also found these unusual shapes within the rock wall. Carved stones in the shape of shells..    

And this huge "rock" in the middle of the stream bed carried with it the remains of a castle wall with cut blocks of stone.

What you can't see is the pristine condition of the walking path to get here, the carefully manicured edges of highway, and the brick sidewalk which guides you back to the parking lot. Europe takes good care of their pedestrians - as well as their motorists.

The Crowds on the Duke's B-Day

This is just part of the crowd scene in the City Square. I don't know what ten thousand people look like....but this is my impression.

(PS: Pawan said last night that there were 100,000 at the sqaure...)

There were dozens of sound stages with hip hop, techno and British Rock....and much  free lance dancing in the crowd. Paula said it reminded her of a cleaner Mardi Gras experience (without  the bare skin).

We were leaving the area after the fireworks and had to make out way through an exit corridor about 400 ft long. There were at least twice as many people as there should have been in that corridor and you only moved forward at the crowds pace.
I LOVED the fireworks...but I'm getting too old for those kinds of crowds.  The kids stayed though  with Pawan till 3am....and Paula, Susan and I came home at a respectable 1am.

The Luxemborg Fireworks

The Fireworks of Luxemborgh are the best anywhere in the world. Paula said they were better than the ones she experienced in New York City and I've never seen anything like it.

There were really 4-5 separate shows...each with music and a crescendo. Each with totally new patterns of light, color, height in the sky and purpose to the overall show.

Men on Stilts

The Duke's Birthday included an amazing dance presentation of men and women on stilts. It was a Cirque-de-Soli moment. We could not get close enough to the stage to actually watch the dance - since the Duke and his Family were in the center seats..... but I was thrilled when the dancers took our  "alley way" to leave and stopped for a photo when asked.

So these guys were probably 6ft tall...and with stilts they were 9-10ft tall. Awesom.

Dinner with the Acers

Susan and Pawan fixed a great dinner of American spagetti and Indian eggplant, along with a few bottles of good wine for the last night the Acers were in Lux.

It was also the Duke's Birthday in which the City cordons off downtown and throws a big Country-wide (yes- country...not city) bash for thousands of people and set off fireworks.

Here it is about 8pm. Notice how light it still is?  We then made our way downtown for the B-Day celebrations.

Not before Pawan and Paula had a discussion  American's  tendency towards "doing" all the time. Not enough down time. Thinking time.  Today's generation...the ones sitting at this table will be entering the workforce- or already have. They bring with them  values which include putting  "Playing Hard" in the same sentence with "Working Hard" .  And I can't help but feel that the international experience which Sarah is getting by going to school here, and the Acers have with their travel experience will bode well for the future and catching your balance in a global world.     

Saving Rothenburg

The best story out of Rothenburg was how it was saved in 1945 from being bombed  into complete oblivion.

Seems it was a matter of serendipity luck.

It was 5 weeks before the War ended and  the Americans knew that a contingent of Germans had taken up residence in the City. Their orders were to bomb it.

Yet, the American General in charge of the bombing had a Grandmother in New York who had been to Rothenburg and loved it. His family still had her paintings from there hanging on their walls. She had always talked glowingly of the city and passed along this fondness for Rothenburg to her grandson... The American General.

This General had been in charge of bombing campaigns in this part of Germany and he knew if it ever came to Rothenburg, he would do what he could to save the City. He decided to make an offer to the Germans in the City: IF he could occupy the city without a fight, he would not bomb it.

This message went out to those inside the walls.The main German General was "away" just on that day, and so his underling in command received the offer from the Americans. Surrender and save the City. Although all German commanders were ordered to fight to the end, this German didn't want to see Rothenburg bombed either and at the risk of being shot by his fellow officers, accepted the American's proposal and handed over the city to them. And thus Rothenburg survived largely in tact. And 600 years of history stands.

The East wall had been damaged in an earlier raid and it took a call out to the world after the War to let people know that the town needed help in rebuilding the wall. Money came in from all over and today you can walk the parapet on the wall and read the names of those who contributed to its rebuilding and their donations.

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Sensory overload

Well, I thought I'd have more time to blog than I do, and there is SOoooo much to talk about here. Just got the Rothenburg pics uploated and some are noted. Although I could fill a page with what the Night Watchman told us about the town and life in those times.  check out the Photo Album at the left...

On the Romantic Road

GPS is Susan's best friend in Europe and now I know why. She just sets it up in her car and follows "her" instructions, a lovely female voice who never gets upset when you go against her advice...simply says politely "please turn around when you can." But if you Do listen to her for every turn, every course change, every request, this amazing instrument can guide you through intricate highway interchanges and multiple course changes. It took us  successfully from Luxembourg to the old town Rotenburgh (about 300 miles from here) to meet up with Paula Acer and her girls. (We followed the Romantic Road which wound us through many quaint old villages and beautiful views...)

First stop was breakfast on the road, where the menu was totally in German, as was the waitress. So we gracefully pointed to two items on the menu which looked to present a good variety and were pleased when she brought two cups of coffee, many homemade rolls, sausage, an egg and cheeses.  We were alittle dismayed when seconds later she brought out a big plate of scrambled eggs, cut cucumbers and tomatoes as well. Oops.  I then discovered the euro "change" I left on the table for a tip was probably close to $7...
all those little coins that look like quarters are really $2.00. ah- learning! Snapped this photo on the way up. Loved the cute design of this travel trailer!

Susan and I arrived in Rotenburg by car, just about the time Paula and girls arrived by train from Munich.Paula and I have been best friends since College. Geeze, wasn't that just yesterday? Hmmm, these are her girls, so I guess a few years have passed! The Acer girls are traveling with "Rick Steves" the worlds best travel book and they suggested we stay at this hotel based on his recommendation. So we got a place at a 600 yr old hotel for only 80 euros (about $120 nite). Fabulous old inn. Huge timbers, rich German food...and geraniums everywhere.Cobble stone streets. Rotenburgh is entirely surrounded by a massive 40 ft wall. You can get an idea of the wall...but the size of one of its entry doors, seen here with Susan.
   

The trick is getting there

It's funny now. The bumped flight. The missed connection. But I thought at the time that it didn't bode well for my impeding vacation with Susan and if I could have arranged it gracefully....I might have turned right around in the Philly airport and headed home after missing my flight for Zurich after sprinting a mile to make the gate.
But, I get ahead of myself. Left on Monday the 16th to catch the plane to Lux, via Philadelphia, Zurich and then Lux. First, there was a two hour line to get through security, then after boarding the plane on time, we sat at the Terminal or on the tarmack for another 2.5 hours due to a problem with a SW Air flight who blew some tires upon touching down. Even made the 6 OClock news in Phnx. The entire run-way terminal was shut down waiting for that to clear up. Thank goodness, no injuries. Just rattled nerves. By that time, I knew I'd missed my original connection in Philly for the Zurich flight. Udi (seen here) re-booked my trip...and connections..and I called friend Renee who rescued me and gave me dinner and a good nights sleep so I could do the same thing the next morning. This time I made it to Philly. Only to miss my Zurich connection by ten minutes. I could envision a night in Philly airport which is what I had hoped to skip by staying in Phoenix instead. I was sent to "Special Services" which did not feel Special at all. But Harried. I was 5th in line and it took over an hour to reach the counter.Turns out Zurich is not the only path to Lux...and they routed me through Frankfort on a later flight. Which I was glad to get. 

Although I was texting the Handas this whole time about my change of plans.. they never got them on their vonnage phone, which is more a land line than a cell phone. AND, my cell phone quit working altogether just outside Philly. So, next day when I arrived at Lux airport to call Susan on her Lux line, I thought' I'd just pick up a phone to do so. BUT- phone instructions are in German. Most personnel spoke only German. And if you've never worked with Euros before or international phones. It's a challenge.  I figured it out - by luck, and heard the sweetest familiar voice on the phone saying she and Eric would come get me. And so they did!

$8 Gas

American's might take a new and fresh look at their gas prices after visiting Europe and decide they don't have it so badly. Gas here is $8/gallon. Of course their automobiles reflect a more measured approach to transportation than America. Even their BIG trucks are about as big as the smallest Hummer in US. And parking lots for as far as the eye can see are filled with cars that are no bigger than a small stationwagon. Everything is expensive because of the exchange rate. The American Dollar is distressed along with Americans in general, and $1 American dollar will buy you about 60 cents worth of European goods.